Chikankari is still around today due to the fact that it follows a different rhythm to that of today’s contemporary fashion and trends, where everything is fast and turnover is quick and requires immediate attention, whereas Chikankari places importance on time, workmanship and handwork.
Each garment takes longer to create, but that time is invested in precision, finish, and finesse. What once felt slow now feels considered. In the era, where fashion is often fleeting, chikankari work offers a calmer alternative.
It’s a process that prioritises thoughtful creation over rushed output, and this deliberate approach gives it meaning and relevance in a landscape dominated by overproduction and disposable clothing.
The Journey of a Chikankari Piece
The beauty of Chikankari lies not only in the finished garment but in the many thoughtful stages that shape it. From the first sketch to the final inspection, each step is guided by experience, patience, and an understanding of how fabric, thread, and handwork come together. The process is slow by design, allowing artisans to focus on balance, precision, and detail rather than speed.
This layered approach ensures that every piece carries the depth of craftsmanship behind it, making chikankari as much about the journey of creation as the garment itself.
Design Development
The process begins with the design of intricate motifs. The designers employ floral patterns, geometric patterns, and elements of nature, which are at times handed down from generation to generation. Each design is carefully crafted to ensure symmetry and elegance even after completion.
Fabric Curation
Artisans select lightweight, breathable textiles like muslin, chiffon, or fine cotton. These fabrics allow needles to pass smoothly and ensure the embroidery settles naturally into the weave rather than sitting heavily on top.
Block Carving
Designs are hand-carved in reverse onto durable tamarind or mango wood. Once the motif is etched, the block is treated with mustard oil to strengthen the wood and ensure a crisp, clear blueprint for the embroidery.
Block Printing
Using washable indigo ink, the carved blocks transfer patterns onto the fabric. These temporary blue outlines serve as a guide for the needlework. Common blocks include gutka (square) and various booti (leaf/floral) patterns.
Fabric Washing
The fabric is washed to relax the fibers and remove any stiffness. This softening process ensures the cloth is pliable, allowing the artisan’s handwork to anchor securely without the fabric resisting the needle.
Embroidery Initiation
Skilled artisans hand-stitch the designs using traditional techniques. These include Bakhiya (shadow work), Phanda (millet-shaped knots), and Jaali (delicate lacelike trellis), among others, each adding unique texture and life to the garment.
Cutting & Tailoring
Unlike mass-produced clothing, Chikankari requires “thoughtful” cutting. The fabric is tailored with strict attention to the placement and symmetry of the motifs, ensuring the embroidery remains balanced across seams and hems.
Quality Assurance
Each finished piece undergoes a final inspection. Artisans check for loose threads, uneven tension, or inconsistencies, correcting imperfections by hand to preserve the integrity and craftsmanship of the work.
Tradition that Fits Today
Chikankari work has survived the test of time by bending with the times, yet not losing its soul in the process. What started as a mark of kurtas and sarees now threads through dresses, shirts, fusion looks, and even into menswear. It brings a soft, understated grace that blends with minimalist lines, layered outfits, and modern cuts to prove its versatility across moods and occasions.
The Craft has More to Reveal
Each stitch carries a purpose, balancing beauty with function, and a technique honed over generations.
It is in these small, precise movements of the needle that the craft comes alive, giving texture, depth, and life to the fabric.
Understanding Chikankari fully means looking closer at these stitches – their forms, their uses, and the skill required to execute them.
Read about the history if Chikankari with Behind the Stitches: Part 1.
